Shimano E Tube For Mac

I'm trying to talk to an Ultegra Di2 system via my Mac. So, I loaded up Parallels, installed Windows 10 as a virtual machine and downloaded the E-tube project. When I fire up the application, it comes up with the SM-PCE1/SM-BCR2 connection request but when I then plug in the SM-BCR2, nothing. I have looked through various device & driver control panels and all seems to be in order and updated. I have tried all the obvious unplugging/shutdown/restart rituals but still no joy.

Sep 04, 2016  Download E-TUBE PROJECT for Tablet and enjoy it on your iPhone, iPad, and iPod touch. ‎E-TUBE PROJECT is an application that allows you update your bicycle's firmware and change Di2 settings by connecting wirelessly. Konica minolta pp1300w driver for mac. E-tube projectとは、自転車ユニットのカスタマイズやファームウェアのアップデート、エラーチェックができるアプリです。アプリのダウンロードや、新しいファームウェアの情報をご案内します。.

Any advice would be much appreciated!

Shimano E Tube Compatibility

We’ve seen some pretty crazy mods to Di2 over the years, from that automatically selects the best gear combo to custom buttons. Those are cool, but for most of us, just being able to fine tune the Di2 we already have is all the hacking we’re comfortable doing. Fortunately, Shimano makes it pretty easy for dealers to help you customize your system. Unfortunately, they’ve not done the best job spreading the word to riders that such options are available, largely leaving it up to the bike shops and resellers to convey the message at the time of purchase. To do that, they need the software and SM-PCE1 adapter from Shimano, which connects their computer to the Di2 system. Those allow them to run diagnostics, updated the firmware and customize the way it works. Our local Trek Bicycles Greensboro just happens to have the device, so we brought in our 6770 Ultegra Di2 group for a long overdue update. Shift past the break to see how it works and what your options are The SM-PCE1 is the relay between a PC and the Di2 battery holder and shifter.

Shimano E Tube For Mac

To connect it, remove one of the auxiliary plugs from a shifter to free up a port, and connect the other cable to your battery holder. It’ll sense the parts by being hooked up to just the shifter, but we had issues getting it to consistently work (kept trying to update just the battery holder) until we connected both cords. The first step is a Connection Check.

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It shows all the parts in your system, then works its way through the system to ensure it can properly communicate with everything. They’ll become outlined in green to confirm it can talk to each part. From here, you can select some or all of the parts you want to update, but best to just get them all modernized together.

If it then shows up yellow, it means the parts have an update available. Hit “Finish” and it’ll tell you what updates are available and allowed. Hit OK and Update and away it goes. Parts will turn green as they’re updated, and a progress bar lets you know how it’s going. From start to finish it only took about 10 minutes. After the firmware update completes, run another connection check to get this screen so you can customize it. On the image above, we had unselected the battery, which is why it is gray, and it wouldn’t let us customize anything.

We were trying this because we kept having it tell us the battery holder needed to be updated, but plugging in the second cord directly to the battery holder solved the problem. So, your screen should show everything green if you want to be able to customize it.

Hit “Customize” and you’ll get to this screen with three options: Switch Shift Functions, Rear Derailleur Adjustments and Multishift Mode Settings. Switch Shift Functions brings you here and lets you dictate which buttons do what. If you want the little button to perform upshifts for both front and rear, or switch rear shifting to the left hand, you can do it here. Climber buttons can also be tweaked if you have them.